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What Started As A Project To Generate Energy Transformed Into One Of The Largest Artificial Lakes In The World, A Nautical Destination Filled With Beauties And Contradictions In The Heart Of Minas Gerais.
Boats cut through the emerald waters between rocky cliffs over 20 meters high. Waterfalls plunge directly into the lake, enchanting tourists. This is the scene in the Furnas Canyons, one of Brazil’s postcards. However, this scenery hides a paradox. The immense “Sea of Minas” is actually Furnas Lake, one of the largest artificial lakes in the world, born from a project of hydroelectric plant that forever changed the geography and life in the region.
The Development Project And The Construction Of The Hydroelectric Plant
In the 1950s, Brazil was living the optimism of the slogan “50 Years In 5” from President Juscelino Kubitschek. The growth of the industrial park in the Southeast, formed by São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, and Belo Horizonte, required an immense amount of electrical energy. The country was at risk of an energy collapse that could hinder its development.
The solution was a monumental project. The construction of the hydroelectric plant of Furnas began in July 1958. It was one of the largest projects of its kind in Latin America at the time. Its strategic location in the course of the Rio Grande was vital to supply the three largest industrial centers in the country.
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The energy that Furnas promised to generate represented, by itself, one third of all installed capacity in Brazil. When the gates closed in 1963, Furnas Lake was born, covering an area of 1,440 km² and a perimeter of approximately 3,700 km, bathing 34 municipalities in Minas Gerais.
The Cities And Memories Submerged By The Lake
Progress had a profound human cost. The filling of the hydroelectric reservoir swallowed fertile lands, small villages, and entire cities. Two communities became symbols of this loss. The old town of Guapé, with about 14,000 inhabitants, was flooded.
The residents were relocated to a “New Guapé” in higher lands. In dry periods, the ruins of the main church and other buildings reappear, like ghosts from the past. Another submerged community was Barra Velha, in the municipality of São José da Barra. Reports from the time describe the disbelief of the residents, who did not believe that the water would reach them.
The evacuation was dramatic, with helicopter rescues. Houses, furniture, and memories were left behind. The flooding destroyed not only homes but a way of life based on the fertile floodplain lands, as well as railways and boat routes that connected the region.
Capitólio And The Natural Beauties Of The Lake
Over time, after the construction of the hydroelectric plant, the region reinvented itself. What was a symbol of displacement became one of Brazil’s most sought-after tourist destinations. The city of Capitólio became the epicenter of this tourism. The Canyons Viewpoint offers spectacular views and is one of the most photographed spots. The main attraction, however, is the boat tour through the canyons, with stops for swimming in waterfalls that flow into the lake.
The region is a paradise of waterfalls, with options for all tastes. Some, like those in the Furnas Canyon, are accessible only by boat. Others, like the famous Lagoa Azul, can be visited by land or water. Complexes like the Trilha do Sol and Paradise Lost offer hiking circuits with various falls. Nautical culture has established itself strongly, giving rise to floating bars and restaurants that serve boats directly on the water.
The Battle For Water And Safety With The Operation Of The Hydroelectric Plant
The prosperity brought by tourism created new challenges. The main current conflict is the dispute over the water level of the reservoir. The operation of the hydroelectric plant is controlled by the National Electric System Operator (ONS), which aims to ensure the energy supply of the country. For this, the lake level often needs to be reduced.
This reduction, however, causes devastating losses to the local economy, which depends on a full lake for navigation and to keep the landscape attractive. The issue has become a political battle, with local leadership pressing for the maintenance of a minimum quota.
Additionally, safety has become a central concern after the tragic rockfall in January 2022. The event exposed the natural risks of the region, such as rock detachments and “flash floods,” requiring greater regulation and monitoring.
How To Plan Your Trip To The Sea Of Minas
To make the most of the region, planning is key. The dry season (April to October) has sunny days, less rain, and a quieter city, ideal for those seeking tranquility. The rainy season (November to March) has waterfalls at maximum volume, but unstable weather can cancel tours and prices are higher.
The best way to arrive and get around is by car, departing from Belo Horizonte (4h30) or São Paulo (6h). Having your own vehicle is essential to explore the land attractions. Capitólio is the main base for lodging, with options for all budgets.
For those who also want to explore Serra da Canastra, towns like São João Batista do Glória and Vargem Bonita are excellent alternatives. When planning your visit, remember to hire only licensed tour operators and always follow the safety guidelines from local guides.
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