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An Inherited Property In 1958 Gained New Life After Decades Of Changes, Losses And Reinventions, When Adriana And Luigi Decided To Rebuild Their Own History And Transform The Space Into The Gastropub That Resumed The Family Memory
On a traditional avenue in Guarulhos, a discreet property today houses a gastropub that blends old memories, family history, and a long process of personal reconstruction. Sora Bernardes occupies this space because it rescues part of the local cuisine, in addition to representing resistance through different phases.
Visitors find various paintings and unlikely objects that help tell the story that began decades before the current owners.
The environment has undergone many changes, thus becoming a symbol of how a business can survive the test of time and loss.
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A couple who only has Sundays free has built a hand-dug pool, a hamburger joint, a dance hall, and a playground in their own home without hiring a mason, and even with breaks due to accidents and the pandemic, the work has never truly stopped.
The journey begins in 1954, when Teresa Maria, an Italian, arrived in Brazil with her husband and son Serafino.
The family fled the war and disembarked with little money. They sought support from a relative living in the region.
Four years later, they received the land where the restaurant operates to this day.
In the old simple house, Teresa began cooking for workers from a nearby company. The improvised meals attracted customers because they offered familiar flavors and affordable prices.
The place became a meeting point. Families celebrated weddings and anniversaries there, according to Adriana Bernardes, the current chef and partner of the gastropub. The Italian cook became a reference until 1978, when she passed away and left an important legacy.
The Constant Reinvention Led By Luigi Ongaro
After Teresa’s death, her husband transformed the property into a bar. Later it became a snack bar. In 1991, at a time when Guarulhos was unfamiliar with the concept of pubs, Luigi Ongaro, the youngest son of the founder, opened the Italian Bar. In this way, he brought an unprecedented proposal to the city.
Ongaro has always been a fan of soccer. In 1983, after marrying for the first time, he returned to Italy to pursue a sports career. He tried out for Inter Milan and played with Aldo Serena, who participated in the World Cups in 1986 and 1990.
But the lack of financial support and his wife’s difficulty to adapt prevented him from staying. Then the couple returned to Brazil. Luigi reopened a snack bar at the same location and continued to innovate.
In 2011, the venue became Whiskeria 8.1/2 and later Los Braseiros, opened in 2017 as a steakhouse that attracted local residents.
Things would change drastically in 2018 when Luigi’s wife was diagnosed with aggressive cancer. She passed away in 2020, and the entrepreneur fell into deep mourning, closing the restaurant.
The space was abandoned until Adriana returned to its life.
The Reunion That Revitalized A Business And Two Personal Stories
Adriana Bernardes had known Luigi since childhood. She used to buy snacks at the family’s old snack bar, although the two only resumed contact in 2012.
The businesswoman began working at her father’s metal factory at age 15 and took over the company at 19 after his unexpected death.
She reports that she faced sabotage attempts because she was the only woman among 45 men.
She had to learn about machines and processes to maintain control of the business. After years, she closed the factory after battling severe depression.
When she started dating Luigi and visited the forgotten property, Adriana was indignant to see everything closed and covered in dust. She had always wanted to have a kitchen and suggested that they rebuild the restaurant together.
The Rebirth Of Sora Bernardes Amid Credit And Improvisation
The decision was made in October 2021, but the couple did not have enough capital. Adriana asked for help from a bank manager friend, sold an old machine, and raised R$ 28,000 to restart the project.
They received an industrial stove, used pots made by Adriana during her time in metalworking, and had occasional support. A businessman allowed them to pay for the oven in installments, and a cousin of Luigi agreed to cover purchases with a payment plan.
In May 2022, Sora Bernardes was officially inaugurated.
In the first three days, the house was full, and word of mouth boosted the return of the public to the historic address.
Just a few months later, the place regained relevance and achieved a revenue of R$ 60,000 per month. Thus, it established a new phase without losing its connection to the family’s past.
The Name That Unites Two Affective Memories
The name “Sora Bernardes” pays tribute to two stories. “Sora” represents Teresa Maria; “Bernardes” remembers Adriana’s father, who passed away when she was 19. For them, the union of the names symbolizes reconstruction and family memory.
They also discovered that Adriana’s mother had been Luigi’s nanny when he was 12. She reported that she only ate well when visiting the Italian’s house. This connection reinforced the emotional significance of the restaurant.
The Salvage That Became Visual Identity And Attracts The Curious
The decor draws attention. Paintings of strangers appear alongside Marilyn Monroe. There is a guitar, a fishing net on the ceiling, and various objects linked to family culture.
According to Adriana, this aesthetic comes from the Italian tradition of repurposing materials, as scarcity marked the family’s arrival in Brazil.
Luigi began salvaging items from dumpsters while running the Whiskeria 8.1/2 bar in Tatuapé. A table lid became a frame. A curtain valence transformed into a bar front.
Furniture purchased at auctions was restored by him. This work earned a sustainability award from the city hall.
At Sora, Adriana emphasizes that the salvage has curation. They do not want to accumulate objects indiscriminately.
Among rare pieces are the first poster of the Spider-Man movie, the last from a performance by Elis Regina, a Carrara marble table, and a crucifix made of olive wood brought from Israel.
Customers also participate in this construction. Some donated miniatures, hand-painted cups, and even a pink hair dryer used for a mother’s graduation. Recently, old photos of James Dean and Sophia Loren arrived.
The Entire Family Moving The Restaurant Operation
Sora is managed by the family. Adriana takes care of the kitchen, purchases, and part of the administration. Luigi, trained by the International Bartenders Association, is a bartender, pizzaiolo, and host.
Letícia, Adriana’s daughter, is a trained bartender and Brazilian cocktail vice-champion.
Eduardo, 13, studies classic pizza and participates in training.
Three freelancers assist on weekends, but from Tuesday to Thursday, the operation is solely run by them.
The house sauce follows Teresa Maria’s recipe, refined by Adriana, who started culinary courses at the age of 12 and resumed studies at IGA in 2012. The chef has also specialized in pasta and plans to study for three months in Italy.
Hospitality As A Daily Practice And A More Intimate Future
Hospitality defines Sora Bernardes. The couple treats each customer as a guest in their living room. They explain the restaurant’s history and create lasting connections.
For this reason, many people celebrate birthdays there. Others return weekly, choose the same table, and partake in the emotional construction of the place.
Adriana envisions a future with a menu without fixed items. She plans to serve only the special dish of the day, like a mother’s lunch. A surprise at every dinner, maintaining the essence of the welcome that has always guided Sora.
With information from Pequenas Empresas e Grandes Negócios.
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