Portuguese 
English 
Spanish 
4 min of reading 
0 comments 
Developed by the Brazilian Nova Kaeru, the biocuir beLEAF, made from leaves, is the new bet of giants like Louboutin. But its composition, which includes fossil-based plastic, raises a crucial debate about what is truly sustainable.
The Nova Kaeru, a pioneer in organic tanning, is at the center of attention with beLEAF, an innovative material that transforms the leaf of the ‘Elephant Ear’ plant into a luxury item. Used by coveted brands like Loewe and Christian Louboutin, the material fascinates with its unique aesthetics. However, despite its production process having a positive environmental impact, the use of a fossil-derived polyurethane coating and a recycled polyamide lining places it at the center of controversies surrounding the term ‘vegan leather’.
The Journey of Nova Kaeru and the Future of Vegan Leather
The search for sustainable alternatives to animal leather has driven innovation in the fashion industry. In this scenario, the Brazilian company Nova Kaeru stands out with beLEAF, a biocuir produced from plant leaves that has conquered the global luxury market. This article explores the journey of Nova Kaeru, the technology behind beLEAF, and the challenges and opportunities that shape the future of vegan leathers.
From Frog Skin to Global Stage of Sustainability
The story of Nova Kaeru is marked by innovation and the vision of its co-founder, Eduardo Filgueiras. Far from the tanning business, Filgueiras was a guitarist who, in the 90s, got involved in his family’s frog farming business. The beauty of the frog skins, which were discarded, sparked his curiosity and led him to seek a way to make use of them.
-
A fine of R$ 115 thousand places Goodyear at the center of an environmental case in Americana after oil and grease appeared in a stream and the company was required to act quickly.
-
A fine of R$ 115 thousand puts Goodyear at the center of an environmental case in Americana after oil and grease appeared in a stream and the company was forced to act quickly.
-
Lack of workers and an aging population: Japan bets on AI robots in factories, logistics, and infrastructure to keep the economy and essential services active.
-
Natville puts R$ 700 million on the table for new factories in the Northeast, generating jobs and boosting the local economy.
The Journey of Eduardo Filgueiras and the Creation of the Kaeru® Process
Filgueiras embarked on a self-taught journey, attending a tanning school where he was shocked by the use of toxic chemicals. This experience shaped his business philosophy. The initial challenge was the size of the frog skins, too small for commercial use. The solution was the development of an exclusive technique to “weld” the skins, creating larger and seamless sheets. The “Kaeru® Process” was born, the technological basis of the company.
The Business Model Focused on “Bio Leathers” and the Impact on the Local Economy
Founded in 2006, Nova Kaeru specialized in “Bio Leathers” made from exotic materials, using natural and sustainable processes. The company, based in Três Rios and Petrópolis (RJ), has become an important employer in the region, with over 150 people involved in production. Nova Kaeru operates with licenses from all environmental agencies and has a wastewater treatment facility, reinforcing its commitment to sustainability.
A Circular Economy Model and Social Impact in the Amazon
To understand the credibility of Nova Kaeru, it is essential to analyze its most emblematic product: the pirarucu leather. The company was a pioneer in transforming pirarucu skins, previously considered waste from the food industry, into luxury leather. This act of upcycling is a pillar of the company’s identity.
The Transformation of Waste into Luxury Leather
Nova Kaeru has implemented a practical example of circular economy by giving a new purpose to pirarucu skins. The business model involves a complex supply chain that extends to the Amazônia, with partnerships with 280 indigenous and riverside communities, involving around 4,000 fishermen.
Collaboration with local communities is essential for the sustainable management of pirarucu, a species that was once threatened with extinction. Thanks to sustainable management practices, wild pirarucu populations have seen an increase of over 427% in the last ten years. The sale of skins to Nova Kaeru represents a vital source of income for local families.
The “Leaf Leather” That Revolutionizes the Luxury Market
The beLEAF is a patented biotic fabric developed by Nova Kaeru from the leaves of the Alocasia Macrorrhiza plant, known as “Elephant Ear”. The material preserves the natural texture of the leaf veins, making each piece unique.
The beLEAF has characteristics similar to animal leather in terms of versatility, touch, weight, and pliability. It is marketed as vegan, natural, and biodegradable, a “co-creation with nature.”
The Science Behind Organic Tanning and the Commitments of the Material
The tanning process of beLEAF is 100% free of heavy metals, using a proprietary formulation that combines organic oils, plant-based polymers, and natural resins. To ensure strength, the tanned leaf is reinforced with a 100% recycled polyamide lining. The finish, however, uses a layer of polyurethane (PU) derived from petroleum, a limitation that the company seeks to overcome.
Seja o primeiro a reagir!